Rolling on the River

The Columbia River originates in the mountains of British Columbia, runs north for a while, then south, then west passing through an 80 mile long, 4000 ft deep gap in the Cascade Mountains called the Columbia River Gorge, and finally reaching the Pacific Ocean 1,243 miles later at Astoria, Oregon. Indigenous people have lived along the river with its abundance of salmon for at least 15,000 years.  European mariners explored the outlet of the Columbia in the late 18^th century, and in 1792, American Robert Gray captained the first ship to cross the bar and explore 13 miles up the river.  The Lewis and Clark overland expedition (1803-1805) crossed the Rocky Mountains, canoed down the Snake River, the largest tributary of the Columbia, and continued down the Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. Both the Americans and British rapidly recognized the potential for extracting great wealth from the river and the surrounding lands from fur trapping.  As the supply of beavers, muskrats, otters and other furry animals decreased by the 1850s, lumber and salmon became central to the economy of the Oregon Territory. The Columbia River played a key role in transporting these goods primarily to be loaded on ships in Portland and Astoria and shipped all over the world.

The Columbia River still plays a central role in commerce in the Northwest.  In 2020, hydropower generated by multiple dams along the Columbia and its tributaries supplied over 50% of the electricity consumed in Oregon (wind turbines contributed another 14%).  Barges carry grain from farms in eastern Oregon and Washington down the river to be loaded onto ships bound for Japan and elsewhere. Recently I saw an odd barge headed up river pushed by a large tug and pulled by a smaller one. At a distance of several miles, I just couldn’t make out the nature of its cargo. Up close, I could see that the barge was carrying huge wind turbine blades heading to a wind farm in the east.

Rail lines run along the shores on both sides of the river.  Trains pass by every 30 to 40 minutes. Among the most controversial rail cargos is oil from the east shipped to refineries in the west. Derailments and spills have occurred including one that started a fire threatening the small town of Mosier, Oregon in 2016.

Forest fires in the Columbia River Gorge are unfortunately becoming more common. Five years ago, the Eagle Creek Fire burned for three months, eventually consuming 50,000 acres on the Oregon side of the Gorge. It was caused by a teenager playing with fireworks.

Despite the lingering scars of the fires, the Gorge is incredibly beautiful. It is a protected National Scenic Area, so new building is severely restricted.  One of my favorite spots is Cape Horn. It is on the Washington side of the river and consists of towering basalt columns, some rising several hundred feet.  During the rainy season, there are several waterfalls. A 2,382 ft railroad tunnel runs through the rock. Although there is an overlook trail, the only way to really see the rock formation is from the water.

The throbbing of a barge or rumble of a train will be heard frequently throughout the Gorge, but I don’t find them to be intrusive. On my hike to the top of Beacon Rock this week, I was surprised to hear an airplane.  When I looked out, I was looking down on a plane below, banking hard to the right to circle around for a second view of the Rock.  I am certain that this was the first time in my life that I have been able to look down on a plane while standing on the ground!

After descending from Beacon Rock, I took a breather on the dock at the base of the Rock, and I suddenly heard a whirring noise that I couldn’t immediately identify.  I looked up and there was a large drone hovering overhead. It was another first – the first drone I have seen or heard in the Gorge. Actually, drones are prohibited in many places in the Gorge over safety concerns, but perhaps the owner had not read the rules, and frankly, I must admit, it was pretty cool!